Why Does Acne Look Worse Before It Fades
You start a new acne treatment, and instead of clearing up, your skin seems to break out even more. Red, swollen pimples pop up everywhere, making things look uglier than before. This happens because the treatment is working deep under the skin to push out trapped gunk.
Acne forms when pores get clogged with oil, dead skin cells, and bacteria. A pimple builds up as this mix creates pressure inside the pore. Many treatments, like those with benzoyl peroxide or retinoids, target the root cause by speeding up skin cell turnover and killing bacteria. At first, this stirs everything up. The pore walls weaken, and the clogged material rises to the surface as whiteheads or pustules. Inflammation ramps up too, because your immune system fights the released bacteria harder. Your skin barrier takes a hit from the active ingredients, leading to redness, dryness, and extra sensitivity. To compensate, oil glands kick into overdrive, producing more sebum and possibly sparking new breakouts.
This purging phase usually lasts two to six weeks, depending on the treatment strength and your skin type. Deeper cysts or nodules take longer to surface since they sit further down. Skipping moisturizer makes it worse, as dry skin signals glands to make even more oil, trapping debris and worsening the cycle. Harsh scrubbing or popping pimples spreads bacteria deeper, adding inflammation and delaying healing.
As the purge ends, the bad stuff comes out fully. Pores unclog, bacteria die off, and inflammation calms. Skin turnover normalizes, letting fresh cells replace the damaged ones. The barrier repairs with gentle care, like using hydrating products that rebuild lipids and proteins. Over time, spots fade, texture smooths, and breakouts space out.
Patience is key during this stage. Stick to your routine, but ease in actives slowly to lessen the initial shock. Hydrate well, avoid picking, and protect from sun, which can darken healing spots and slow recovery.
Sources
https://www.london-dermatology-centre.co.uk/blog/adult-acne-scarring/
https://worldofasaya.com/blogs/acne/healing-acne-damaged-skin-barrier-repair-guide
https://parlorbeauty.co.uk/acne-prone-skin-myths-that-could-be-making-breakouts-worse/
https://www.aesthetispa.com/blog/3-things-making-your-acne-scars-worse-and-what-you-can-do-about-it/
