Why Acne Gets Worse Before It Gets Better
You start a new acne treatment, like a strong cleanser or retinoid cream, and instead of clearing up, your skin breaks out even more. Red, angry pimples pop up where you least want them. This frustrating phase happens to many people and is totally normal. It is called purging.
Purging occurs when acne treatments speed up your skin’s natural turnover process. Your skin sheds dead cells and pushes out clogged pores faster than usual. Those hidden whiteheads, blackheads, and early pimples that were brewing under the surface rush to the top all at once. This looks like a worse breakout, but it is actually a sign the treatment is working. The extra oil, bacteria, and debris your pores held onto for weeks come out in a hurry.
Think of it like cleaning out a stuffed drain. At first, gunk floods out, making a mess. But once it is gone, water flows freely again. Your skin does the same. Treatments with ingredients like retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, or salicylic acid tell your cells to renew quicker. This brings microcomedones, the tiny precursors to full pimples, to the surface before they turn into big cysts.
Purging usually hits in the first two to six weeks of starting a new routine. It tends to happen in acne-prone zones like the T-zone on your face, jawline, chest, or back. Hormonal acne in adults, especially women, often flares here due to oilier skin and clogs from stress or cycle changes. If you switched products or added actives too fast, expect this bump-up phase to last one to two weeks or longer.
Not every breakout is purging, though. If new pimples appear in spots you never had trouble before, or if irritation lingers past six weeks, it might be a reaction to the product itself. Comedogenic ingredients can clog pores worse, or over-washing strips your skin barrier, making it produce more oil to fight back. Over-exfoliating does the same by causing inflammation.
To get through purging without quitting, stick with the treatment but ease in gently. Start with every other night for strong actives, and always moisturize to keep your skin balanced. Avoid piling on too many new things at once. Wash with lukewarm water, not hot, since heat strips oils and worsens things. Patience is key; after the purge, skin often calms and stays clearer because pores are less clogged overall.
Sources
https://www.tuftsmedicine.org/about-us/news/acne-over-30
https://www.oreateai.com/blog/understanding-breakouts-duration-causes-and-solutions/fa87ec38a7e41620ad4048ff675f04d8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGLdq7kgTdI
https://woodlandswellness.com/acne-treatment-9-ways-to-stop-acne-before-it-appears/
